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Showing posts with label clothes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label clothes. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Sewing and Hair

Sewing

I can never find information on hand sewing. There's plenty of information on machine sewing.
I wasn't able to get my mother's sewing machine from home. So frustrating. I know I have schoolwork to do but I want to relax by sewing. I desperately need to grow my lolita wardrobe. I do have a garment from winter break, where I sewed the bodice to the skirt. I drafted the pattern myself, and it fits pretty well.

It is extremely hard to find information on hand sewing garments. What I've found so far is basting stitches in preparation for machine sewing. Blech.

So, I will soon go on a quest for antique sewing magazines. They oftentimes show you how to handsew in the back, as machines weren't as prevalent.

I will take a pic of my dress for later on, as a WIP. I might have mentioned this previously, but I want to hand embroider the top, and make lace for the edging by hand. I've found several pretty lace patterns, and I have already begun one in a minty green.

Its great, the fitted sheet  for my bed here at college has lost its elasticity. I don't really want to repair it. I want to turn it into another lolita dress!
I'm silly, silly. I have two other pairs of sheets, I don't need  three! Its ok.
I needs lots and lots of green dresses I do! hah.
well, spring IS coming. I haven't gotten a chance to wear lolita s much as I wanted to this winter. I don't have the proper attire to do so is the problem. I really want knit tights and lolita boots. But of course, the fashion is expensive...
Once I get a paying job in the games industry, I'll dress it all the time squee!

Anyway, I will post the pattern as I drafted it, and a tutorial will follow.
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These are some of the tutorials I am using. Sorry, this time these are all videos.


http://youtu.be/CJUuxOTkbRE - this woman has pretty decent tutorials in general.
http://youtu.be/gtCVpi99o8A - A lolita shirt reconstruction
http://youtu.be/ZmSbiHakoyg - bloomers

Hair
I have the hair of an african american. It is frizzy, fluffy, dense, and strong willed. It is not a good idea to break the will of hair, because you will break your hair.
It is, however, shoulder length. I choose not to straighten it with chemicals, use a flat iron, or wear extensions to make it look straight. For the most part I tolerate and like my hair, but I want wigs so that I can change up my hairstyle more often. I want a green wig!

The only thing is to work around your hair. I don't think it is unfortunate that I don't have straight long hair. I find it unfortunate that there's a lack of diversity in the magazines such as the G&LB. The point is to look victorian and cutesy. But I'm pretty sure there are alternatives to the one look that is presented in these books and others like it.

I do believe that lolita generally requires shoulder length or longer hair in order to attempt certain styles. One could have closely cropped boyish hair or tiny curls though, it will just require accessories for it to look lolita-ish. Cute hats, beanies, berets, hair ornaments and clips, and definitely bows.
It just matters that you take care of your hair.

Monday, January 30, 2012

New Dress Commentary

New BBTSSB dresses in online-store!
Stands for Baby, the Stars Shine Bright, a japanese lolita brand. They have a store in San Francisco that I really want to go to and browse in.

Its very cute and classic, even though I'm not a Shiro lolita, or a sweet lolita. I might have said before that I'm a classic lolita. It looks like a toned down sweet lolita dress. They also have off white, pink, navy, black and white, and pure black.



http://www.babyssb.co.jp/shopping/baby/jumper/136206.html


Yes, its a nice dress, but the reason I posted about this is that the sizing is reasonable! This dress could be a lower sized plus size dress, as the size is:

Length:90cm(35.43inch)
Bust:85~104cm(33.46~40.94inch)
Waist:81~100cm(31.88~39.37inch)

The dress looks a little short. Its wider around than it is long. I have a problem with that. I wish lolita brands in general would have more "long" or "tall" sizes. Over 40" in length, because not everyone is 5' even. So 36 inches is 1 yard, which is 3 feet. So 2 feet (24 inches) of you isn't being covered if you're 5'. That might be ok, might come up to your knees or slightly above. If you're 5'8", for example, you're 68". 68 - 35 = 32". Almost 3 feet of you isn't being covered. That means mid thigh is uncovered.


Love Ring Present Box
http://www.babyssb.co.jp/shopping/baby/jumper/135263.html
Ugh, the name is a little rough. =.= I dislike how lolita clothes and other items have Japanese-english names that don't quite make sense in translation. It feels tacky, it sounds tacky and broken english-japanese-ish. Kinda like they're trying to be  'kawaii-otaku'. ITAIII! T_T

The sizing here isn't exactly plus size.
Length:92cm(36.22inch)
Bust:88~99cm(34.64~38.97inch)
Waist:68~80cm(26.77~31.49inch)

People wonder why others make replicas of dresses. Much of the world isn't one size fits all. The dresses and clothing that comes in stores is. Incidently, you cannot copyright an idea in US copyright law. http://www.bitlaw.com/copyright/unprotected.html . The US government holds that a piece of clothing cannot be copyrighted. If a design is copyrighted, because it has a specific use, the article of clothing can be modified significantly to create a different article of clothing. The popular myth amongst lolitas that one can copyright a dress is preposterous.
If dresses were copyrighted, there wouldn't be derivatives of the wrap dress. Or, designers would be paying royalties to the original wrap dress creator.

I don't know Japanese copyright law. I might look into it.

Another question is does a dress from a brand have a specific utility? Utility as in the difference between a generic shoe and those shoes where each of your toes is hugged, and supposedly you're able to run better.

I have lots of ideas about lolita fashion. I need to organize my thoughts about it into a researched discourse.
For one, I would expand the sizing.
I believe also that there are many different patterns and styles that can be experimented with.
I want to see more patterns being created and given out, and in multiple sizes. I think that companies won't do that, because they know that they are in a cultural niche, and they want to control the style and flow of money in the community.
There is a great deal of lolita dependence on brand clothing.

I feel like I want to write a book about this, nonfiction. That would require research, however.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Designing Designs, and alternatives to buying brand

I think my friends are somewhat tired of me talkinga bout how sorrowful I am over not having access to my lolita stuff. Last night, I caught myself looking at bodyline dresses and considering prices and fits.
x_x  I know that most bodyline dresses can't fit me. But (some) are so pretty! And not all are sugary sweet hyper sweet lolita!

To be honest, some of those angelic pretty prints and the knockoffs from bodyline look like they'd give you diabetes if you look at them too long. I like Bbtssb more than angelic pretty because at times they tone down their prints. They also have slightly larger sizing. =.=

I am on an ongoing adventure to find clothes for the plus sized lolita. Unfortunately, one of the only ways a plus lolita can dress in lolita is altering a dress, getting a custom commission, going to a brand shop like F+F and getting custom sized, or making your own.

  • The first option, altering a dress, is very tricky. One must find cloth that is exactly the same. You might have to decimate a bow that came with the dress, or apply a neutral color. The most common sizing fix is to add panels of space underneath the arms. That is often where the seams, zippers or buttons are. 
  • The next idea is to let the skirt and bodice out. If there is shirring or gathering at the bodice or skirt, one could take a seam ripper and let some of the gathers out, and resew them.
  • If one follows these ideas, the bottom of skirt width may not be enough. Therefore, another way to add width would be to add panels.
  • If one is tall, adding ruffles of a plain color or a nice quality lace is ideal to add a few inches to the hem. I did this with my Bodyline dress, which was four inches too short.
Most of these ideas involve knowing at least basic sewing. I grew up being a crafty person. I played with my sewing kit when I was in daycare. (I was somewhat of a nuisance, I admit, because I left needles around... x_X) But I essentially taught myself. Back stitching, running stitch, basting, and overcast hand stitching are basic. However, if you need aid in this, there are plenty of tutorials on Youtube. My mummah taught me the basics of knitting and crocheting, and I learned the rest on Youtube.

Custom commissions are slightly more tricky. If you don't feel like learning to sew, or are just awful at it, good news! You can simply transfer the work to someone else! There are listings on the major EGL communities for seamstresses all over.  [I will list some here.]
Generally, you can get feedback from these seamstresses from their shop pages, whether it be etsy, artfire, eBay, or livejournal.

There are cheap lolita clothing shops all around the internet. The problem is, you have to make sure the dress or accessory isn't ita. Ita means painful in Japanese, and basically, its a dress that's tacky, horrible, ugly, or cheap looking. Lolitas strive to be as far from Ita as possible. It takes some skill to not be ita, and every lolita goes through an ita period. Cheap dresses tend to be ita, so check with an online lolita community to get feedback before you purchase an ugly dress or skirt. Some brand clothes have been ita offenders, so also check this out.
Some different  low cost japanese, chinese, or korean stores:
Taobao
Fan+Friend
Bodyline
QutieLand

These sites all offer custom sizes, all the way up to around US size 20 or 22. They also offer men sizes, which mean skirts and torsos are longer.

Making your own dress:
Slightly more hard. There are lolita sewing circles and knitting circles you could join.
I will list more about this later, though.

I'm thinking of making this blouse: http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/andrea-blouse. I only have cotton broadcloth with me, so I will have to double it up. Most free burdastyle patterns don't have instructions. However, basically just stitching the seams and hemming, using fraystop and lining helps. Every handsewn project will be different, and is a step to learning how to become a good seamstress. Everyone makes mistakes, it just takes practice.

http://www.burdastyle.com/search?key=lolita+skirt#

When I have time, I hope to make a small guide on handsewing lolita clothing.

I have plenty of lolita clothing designs. I would love to make my own line of plus sized lolita clothing, sizes 10 to 22, or at least lolita patterns. The problem is, I'm a game artist now. I feel like I have to devote all my time to achieving this goal. I love both, but I don't know which I love more: crafting lolita items or drawing for video games. I don't like choosing... I guess this subject is for another time.


Stay frilly y'all.




-MNR

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Inexpensive vs Expensive Brand Clothes, 1

I think that using the word cheap to refer to something low cost is poor terminology. It sounds tacky to call something cheap. Or constantly talk about getting a 'good deal' on a bulk package of clothes. It is as if you're trying to purchase a used car for $200 dollars. Buying clothes is quite a 'you get what you pay for' idea. It is like getting a shirt, shoes, pants and socks for $10. The quality is likely to be terrible, or the clothes will look horrible.
One wants clothes that are sturdy and stylish.

It is obvious that while one wants to not 'break the bank', i.e. paying $400 for a dress or $200 for some shoes. One can look stylish on a budget.  One must also pay a reasonable price, because the price of the clothing goes to pay the company, and the workers, and for advertising, and to keep the lights on in their stores, and especially for the cloth. Or, if it's a private boutique or seamstress/tailor, cost of materials, time, shipping and further tailoring.

One must consider moderation. Paying $300 for a dress is debatable. What it comes down to is if you feel wearing their name is worth it, or if they are just pretty clothes.

I feel this way about brand name lolita clothing. It is obvious that a dress costs so much due to these factors:
  • A certain designer designed it
  • It is made with certain expensive materials, such as brocade, silk, velvet, or natural materials
  • the dress had much labor put into it, with painstaking detail
  • the company can add 'couture' in front of the name or in the description, and add on $300+ dollars to the actual cost.
  • how many dresses are in stock
  • how high the anticipated demand is
  • et cetera.
Most of the time, I just don't think it's right to charge so much for something easily mass produced. Perhaps it is expected of the creators to make something expensive, so that not everyone can have or wear it. Would it be fashionable if everyone was able to fit it and wear it and it lasted for some time? I just feel... if you're going to make a one colored dress out of polyester and cotton, throw on a few frills, a few bits of lace.... is it right to  make it $360USD? They certainly have a right, it is their clothing. But is it fair? Certainly if it were a full rococo gown, historically accurate, with soft, factory made lace and the whole thing is machine washable, it is justified that it should cost $300+ dollars. I wouldn't be surprised if it cost $500, and more if it was a seamstress making it, with hand sewn or hand made details.

Small independent companies are more justified in pricing, because there is much more hands on work in creating the garment, such as hand-picking the fabrics, hand sewing any alterations, embellishing and talking with the customer on sizing, repairs or additions.
Larger shops, like some of the ones I saw on 5th avenue, don't quite have that level of detail in their service. Therefore, I feel as if they're taking advantage of the consumer, and are not justified in selling a pair of synthetic leather heels for $3000. The only way to justify that is if the designer is making every pair of shoes themselves, or if they had precious metals or stones, and rare unique materials. Like live goldfish.
Pic from Discovery Blogs. No, you can't wear these. I wonder if PETA has seen these.


I do enjoy how brands are starting to make their clothes slightly larger and slightly more affordable. I am not a big brand fan. I feel some remorse in saying this. I thought I was a lolita. But is buying brand and wearing someone's name on your feet, head and torso what makes you a lolita? Not at all. The clothes are just covering in the end. It is justifiable to like their style, and want to be a part of their vision. Wearing brand for bragging rights, just to say that you're an expensive and therefore important person, is ridiculous.

I would, however, pay up to $200 for a dress. I believe are such dresses as I would pay such a price:
Dear Celine's Summer Classic OP, from QutieLand
Infanta's Spring Whisper Lady Charlotte OP, from QutieLand


Angelic Pretty's Sweet Princess OP, in Lavender


By plus sized, I mean bust and waist sizes of over 36 inches, or a height larger than 5' 6". And with no alteration.

There's not much you can do for actual brand OPs if you're 45" in either bust or waist. Nothing to do but wait. However, you can request reproductions or totally new dresses from smaller boutiques and seamstresses. It is my dream that these shops will realize that larger sized foreigners exist and want to purchase their clothing. u_u

Plus sized friendly brand shops:
QutieLand - A number of smaller shops that tailor make clothes standard size and 'oversized' for 10-20 extra USD.
Victorian Maiden - A very small number of brand dresses that would fit around bust or waist size of 40-42.
Innocent world - A respectable amount of dresses that have an upper bound of 44 inch waist or bust. Personal favorite.
Baby the Stars Shine Bright (BtSSB) - Their shirred clothing fits up to 45 sized bust and waist. Their tailored clothing hovers around 36 inches for bust and waist.
Candy Violet - An american startup lolita shop, with their own site. They have a size 2XL to most of their clothes, B: 46 W: 36.
English Charm - Goes up to 2XL, B: 48 W: 42 H: 52
Ergi - sizes by commission
Fan+Friend - up to around bust of 44 for untailored items. Offers tailored items.
mfashion - A few brand blouses, B: 42 W:40
Milky Ange - A lot of their dresses have an XL size, where  B: 44in W: 40-42 in. Very lovely traditional lolita.


List will continue as I find shops.

-MNR.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

About 3 dress designs

My sewing skills are sub-par, especially with me not having a sewing machine. But I try.

 
These are just dresses that I may or may not sew or have sewn one day.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Sewing by Hand

Heeey look here's a tutorial for a half elastic waist skirt.
Half Elasticised Waist
I wish I had a sewing machine. I sew all my clothes by hand because my mother's sewing machine crapped out in the middle of a project! Apparently it needs a tune up. And I move back and forth between college and home. Mother is apparently looking for one for me that is small and portable. That would be nice. Sewing by hand takes days, even weeks for a detailed skirt. I can barely do proper ruffling. It kills me. KILLS me. I should post pictures of my skirts. Especially the one where the sewing machine crapped out on me.

Hand sewing does get easier at least. I am grateful for that.

I will try to edit this post by the end of the day with the pictures. It was my first lolita skirt.


On another note, I have been searching the lolita penpal community on livejournal for a penpal. I think that's a great hobby for the lolita! It sounds so fun. I am attracted to it because I don't know anyone else who dresses the style (in person). It would be great to have someone who not only likes lolita and dresses it, but someone with similar interests like anime, manga, art, math, physics, language and philosophy, video games... whatever.

I can start composing that when I have more time tho, I guess. It takes time searching through that whole listing.
http://community.livejournal.com/lolita_pen_pals

In my class, multimedia century, we are spending a day learning about Surrealism. It is so hilarious, and its propositions ridiculous. I have considered myself a surrealist painter, but I suppose I don't really know what that means.... Needs more research!

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Moooore dresses!

I really want a new dress or skirt or two. I've found Milanoo.com, where the clothing is wholesale, and they have a complete lolita section. They have so many pretty dresses! I mean, some are lowcut and obviously lingerie, or some are cosplay, but some are very pretty.

I have to remember to save up for my new york trip with my friends for spring break. I have a limited amount of funds. And i would love to buy souvenirs. So I am trying to get an on campus job so that I can pay for my habit.

Take a look at these things. http://www.milanoo.com/Cotton-Brown-Lace-Ruffles-Classic-Lolita-Dress-p12607.html
http://www.milanoo.com/Sleeveless-Bow-Ruffled-Cotton-Classic-Lolita-Dress-p27034.html
http://www.milanoo.com/Cotton-Red-Lace-Bows-Lolita-Skirt-p7496.html
http://www.milanoo.com/Cotton-White-Short-Sleeves-Blouse-And-Black-Cotton-Lolita-Skirt-Outfit-p13032.html


I have some decisions to make. And some pattern pieces to plan.
I have some old green bedsheet. Very rich and beautiful green. I want to turn it into a basic JSK. This time, I think I will make it a circle skirt.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

New year, new clothes?

It's a new year. Been very busy.

I'm amazed at how hard I worked to finish my finals. Several all nighters to finish art projects. My animation 1 final was crap, but it was finished! I am still learning Maya. I still prefer Blender.


Anyway, so I've been catching up on knitting, crochetting and sewing that I didn't get to do because of class. I really want to work on getting my school life together, but I also need to do some personal stuff. like make my life more lolita friendly.

Ah, the lolita life. I would like to call myself a lifestyle lolita, but I have quite a ways to go before I can actually say that to other people.
At the moment, I don't know of anyone else that dresses lolita... sometimes I prefer being the lone lolita because it's somewhat unique, and I've learned to shy away from online communities. Other lolitas I've found in the past... have been a bit unfriendly. I'd love to have a lolita penpal, or just a regular penpal. Handwriting personal letters sounds like so much fun.

Oh well. What's important is that I have cloth and I'm going to try and sew as much as I can before the break ends. I don't have much time, as we go back to classes the 22nd. I go back to school the 20th. D; I did manage to get a decent lot of things knitted! There's this skirt that I'm hand-sewing though: I think it's too long. Like 30 inches long. I will try to fix it.
But I've found so many lolita accessories too, that I've put together myself or found from the thrift store. I'm so happy about that. Months ago I purchased two cigar boxes for them. I'm hoping at least the jewelry will fit. I have two headdresses so far, those may have to just go in my closet at school with my hats and such.


Aaaanyway.... I'm trying to lolify this pattern here. http://ravel.me/murasakinoryuu/n40ap
It's a top down raglan tshirt done in cotton and acrylic Lionbrand Cotton Ease, and I aim to make the bow at the top more pronounced. It's going pretty fast and I'm excited.

And this pattern here is going to be such a cute lacy waistcoat. It's going to be heavy though, due to it being crochetted. http://www.coatsandclark.com/Crafts/Crochet/Projects/Print+Ads/SN0113+Filigree+Cardigan.htm I have no idea what yarn I can use. I'm thinking caron simply soft, but I also have caron one lb in white. I need a yarn that's not immensely heavy.

Clothing Queue:

Pink trellis lolita skirt
black lolita bonnet
felted wool lolita purse
lolita dress (design coming soon)